Monday, July 30, 2012

1998: Filipinos, Feng Shui and Philadelphians

     In 1998 Gourmet had more than a half century of established approaches to writing about food.  "Specialités de la Maison" reviewed restaurants in New York and eventually San Francisco. Regional writers detailed local specialties, or else these were featured in "Road Food."  With regard to Asia, "Gourmet Holidays" gave detailed advice on a roster of destinations that expanded from Hong Kong and Singapore to Bali and Bangkok.  The reviews of Asian restaurants reflected a parallel growth, from Cantonese Chinese to Thai, Vietnamese, Indonesian and regional varieties of Chinese.  These articles often always included recipes, and even complete menus.
   The October Gourmet mixed things up quite a bit.  "At Home with Susanna Foo, An elegant dinner with Philadelphia's Doyenne of Chinese Cuisine," was about a woman chef from Philadelphia, not previously acknowledged as a culinary capital for Chinese cuisine.  Foo, a librarian by training, was Mongolian by birth but grew up in Shanghai and Taiwan before coming to the United States.  She cooked in her husband's Hunan style restaurant, studied at the Culinary Institute, in Thailand and Italy before opening a restaurant serving food reflecting her personal odyssey. 
     Other new territory was explored that year.  "Resorts of the Philippines" detailed beach resorts in that archipelago.  Under the heading "Hideaways,"   Gourmet, for the first time placed the Philippines in its roster of Asian destinations.  There was a certain irony here, in that the 1990-1999 was a decade of disaster in the Philippines as they suffered a major earthquake, half-a-dozen typhoons and a drought.
   
     


New York:

Kuruma Zushi at 7 East 47th Street is still Karumazushi.
Kang Suh at 1250 Broadway is still Kang Suh.
Mr. K's at 570 Lexington Avenue is still Mr. K's

San Francisco:

E&O Trading Company at 314 Sutter Street closed for renovation and re-opened.
Thep Phanom at 400 Waller Street is still Thep Phenom

Los Angeles:

Ginza Sushiko at 218 Via Rodeo, Beverly Hills is closed.

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